Legendary backpacking author Colin Fletcher has four rules when choosing boots: 1) Pick out a quality boot. 2) Get a good fit. 3) Get a good fit. 4) Get a good fit. His no doldrums bottomline: "You want to walk in comfort; you do not want to get unnecessarily tired; you want to keep your feet as dry as possible."

The Right Fit

5 questions you just gotta ask a boot salesperson.
By Kristin Hostetter

Ask veteran backpackers what they consider the most critical piece of gear, and nine out of ten will say "boots" without hesitation. Happy feet are the first step towards a happy trip. That's why the experts insist you invest a bit of time in the store to make sure you a) pick the best boot for your foot and b) get the boot properly fitted for each foot.

What's a conscientious consumer to do? Here are five specific questions to ask your bootfitter.

1) Will you measure my feet (please!)?
Dana Davis, ace bootfitter from Summit Hut in Tucson, Arizona, says that the first step is always to get an accurate measurement using a Brannock device. "If a fitter doesn't start by measuring and inspecting a customer's foot, that may be a sign that they're not well schooled in boot fitting."

2) Can you customize the fit?
Davis, along with most of the best bootfitters in the country, has been trained by bootfitting guru Phil Oren in modifying boots to perfectly fit anybody's funky foot. "Every size nine foot is shaped differently," says Davis. "If you have a bunion, we can make a pocket to accommodate it so there's no additional chafing. If you have a narrow heel or a low volume foot, we can add different types of padding to secure the foot inside the boot." They key is to stay in the proper size for your foot length, not bump up or down to the next size to solve a volume issue.

3) What type of socks should I be wearing?
"Never underestimate the importance of socks," says Davis. "If your feet are perpetually cold and clammy, merino wool socks are probably best for you. If they're always on the hot side, a synthetic blend will quickly wick sweat away from the foot and keep them cooler and drier." Plus, varying the thickness of socks can also fine-tune the fit of a boot.

4) Do I need custom footbeds or insoles?
"Almost anyone can benefit from footbeds," says Tom Purcell of Marmot Mountain Works in Berkeley, California. "Even someone with a very average, problem-free foot will see a boost in comfort with a quality footbed." Custom molded footbeds always offer the best match for your foot, but even a less expensive off-the-shelf model will help. "For instance, if your arch is high, a footbed can prevent it from elongating or collapsing with each step. Anything that cuts down on movement inside the boot means fewer blisters and a higher comfort level," says Purcell.

5) Do I need waterproof boots?
Of course, if you're a desert hiker, there's no need to spend the extra money on a waterproof liner. But if you hike where there's lots of rain, or you often find yourself sloshing across streams, a waterproof liner (like Gore-Tex) is a wise investment. "Dayhikers who can go home at the end of the day to a pair of dry socks and slippers don't need to worry about liners. But on longer trips it becomes more important to keep your feet dry," says Purcell. "Also," he adds, "Don't neglect the leather just because you have a boot with a waterproof liner." It still needs to be treated periodically to keep it from drying out and cracking

Davis has one last piece of advice: "Remember that you are the one wearing the boots. Bootfitters can guide you in the right direction and make sure that the fit is correct, but if you think a boot is too stiff, for instance, for your comfort level, listen to your gut."

The Boot Is Half Full

Must know secrets on tweaking boot fit.

Your feet tell no lies. If you feel your heel slipping or a pinky toe rubbing or other minor fit problems, then consider using simple techniques to modify your new boots. Brad Winebrenner, expert bootfitter from Nestors in Quakertown, Pennsylvania, says he uses several tricks to fine-tune fit.

Stretching
Bootfitters can rub, soften, or stretch out troublesome spots with a rubbing bar(see photo above) or a pneumatic stretcher. Most leather and synthetic footwear can be stretched from the inside out, says Winebrenner. Over the past five years he has solved numerous boot dilemmas with a simple push here, stretch there. The usual suspects are funky toe joints, bothersome bunions, bone protrusions, and extra-wide toes. "I usually tell customers to break in new boots naturally for a few days before I'll manually stretch them." For more serious rubs, he corrects the problem spot before customers leave the shop.

Spacers
Folks who need excess volume gulped up in their boots can consult a plethora of foot spacers found on the market. 5-irons, a flat spacer inserted under the insole, help adjust volume under the foot. Heel shims and other localized spacers target specific gaps. Tongue depressors placed between the laces and tongue fill in extra volume from the top. The biggest secret in all volume adjustment, admits Winebrenner, is to make sure the heel stays in the boot's heel pocket. Also, make sure your toes don't get pushed into the roof of the toe box.

Common Lacing Techniques
From the Experts at Montrail

The standard lacing technique works well for many people but not everybody. Correct lacing is taut, but not too tight, from the toe up to the top of the boot or shoe. There should be no loose lacing and the lacing should contact the boot evenly and firmly.

Below are a few tried-and-true techniques. Use this as a starting point and experiment with your own.

Loop: If laces are slipping on a hook, lace "down" a hook instead of "up" creating a loop.

D-ring lock: By bringing the lace around through the eyelet from the top, pressure is applied on the lace.

Overhand knot: The most common means of locking off tension below the knot.

Surgeon's knot: this is a very secure means of locking off any chosen tension below the knot.

Marathon loop: Improves heel lock for low-cut shoes.

Common Techniques

A Long Life For Your Boots

Baby your boots with our expert advice below.
By Steve Howe

Always clean your boots after use," says Dave Page, owner-manager of Dave Page, Cobbler in Seattle, a major repair and warranty center for large retailers and manufacturers. "Take them to a utility sink and scrub them with an old veggie brush. They usually come home wet, so water's fine. Remove the footbeds. Dry the boots at normal room temperature, with no heat. Put a waterproofing treatment or a leather conditioner on them if they look dry. With modern, cemented-sole boots, don't overwaterproof them, and don't use any, I mean any, heat, because it can cause the sole edges to delaminate."

"Boots are pretty maintenance-free and durable," says Rick Applesies of Vasque. "But when you get a boot saturated and muddy, the mud draws a lot of moisture out of the leather as it dries. So after cleaning and drying, use a silicone-based leather treatment to recondition the leather. Silicones are absorbed better than wax treatments and don't tend to clog pores or inhibit leather breathability as much. Things like mink oil will soften leather too much. When boot leathers are tanned, often times stiffeners are put into the leather, and you don't want to lose all the support."

"Never put your boots next to a fire or stove," cautions Dave Smith of Danner Shoe Manufacturing Co. "Two things can happen. Put 'em too close, and you singe or melt or burn the materials. Second, wet leathers will shrink as they dry, and the boot's fit will change. Finally, don't wear your boots when working with pesticides, herbicides, and any other chemicals, since they can cause a sole to peel.